Knowledge articles
A Guide for Attracting Garden Birds in New Zealand
Words Courtesy of Topflite Why Feed Wild Birds? Restoration As our population grows, cities get denser and suitable habitats for our birds get smaller. National bird counts show that some populations of native and introduced species are in decline, while others are increasing. By creating bird-friendly habitats in our urban spaces, parks and gardens, we can help bird populations grow throughout New Zealand. Preservation Birds need a little help from us, especially in winter when natural food sources are in short supply. Most New Zealanders know by now that putting out bread is not the answer. Bread and grains are really bad for birds as it lacks the proper nutrition. Putting out clean water, good quality seed, nectar, fat-based food and fresh fruit will see birds through times of food scarcity. Appreciation Watching birds is one of life’s most simple yet enriching pleasures. Amusing to look at and gorgeous to listen to, birds bring life and personality to the garden. But it’s more than just a pretty picture. Feeding birds creates a connection with nature, which humans need for a good sense of wellbeing. It also helps us to learn about bird species; their habits, food preferences and behaviour. What Food for Which Bird? For Native Birds New Zealand’s native birds eat a combination of nectar, fruit, foliage and insects. They don't eat seed like the introduced bird species brought to New Zealand by settlers. The best thing to do for native birds, if you can, is to plant a range of flowering and fruiting native plants as long-term food sources. During winter and autumn, when natural food sources are scarce though, try putting out nectar, Energy Food or fresh fruit to attract native birds. For Introduced Species: One clue as to what a bird eats is the shape of its beak. Finches and sparrows for example, have triangular-shaped beaks, designed to crack into hard seed coats. Our premium New Zealand-grown seeds are high in energy and rich in essential nutrients, providing a boost when food is scarce for these common garden visitors. Many introduced species of birds will also love a taste of Energy Food, if there's any left after the tauhou/silvereye have visited! Insect-eaters will gobble up any mealworms that are scattered on the ground, and every bird appreciates a safe, clean water source for drinking and bathing. Winter Feeding for Wild Birds in New Zealand A bird’s natural diet is dependent on the availability of food between seasons. Here's what to feed New Zealand birds in winter: Birds are at their coldest and need more energy than usual to survive. They search out rich sources of fat and protein to sustain them until natural food starts appearing again in spring. Vegetable fats provide the energy they need to keep warm and make the next flight. Put out Wild Bird Energy food consistently for the small birds, along with bits of fruit. Small birds like silvereyes will visit often. In the colder months, putting out nectar or sugar water can improve survival rates for tūī and korimako. Make sure the feeder is designed specifically for nectarivorous birds and clean it twice a week. Seed eaters will also be on the look-out for a feed so top up feeders regularly with Wild Bird Seed mix. As our seeds are nearly all grown in New Zealand, the nutritional value is much higher than that of imported seeds. The birds will be well-nourished for the breeding season to come. Frequently Asked Questions Where Should I Hang My Bird Feeder? Somewhere high, and dry. Always hang a bird feeder out of harm’s way. Birds feel safe feeding high up off the ground as they are out of the reach of predators like cats, rats and stoats. When hanging a bird feeder from a tree, be sure to hang the feeder out on a limb rather than close to the trunk to discourage pests. How Do I Clean a Bird Feeder? First, chuck out any leftover bird food. Take the bird feeder apart and soak well in warm water to remove debris. Scrub thoroughly using a squirt of gentle dishwashing liquid. Leave it to dry completely before refilling with your local flyers’ favourite NZ-made bird feed. Tweeeet as! How Else Can I Attract Birds to My Garden? Planting native trees is the best way to provide long-term food sources for native birds. Tūi and bellbirds love flax or kōwhai and native jasmine. Koromiko and other hebe species will bring insects which in turn attract birds like the pīwakawaka and grey warbler. Topflite Wild Bird Mix 20kg A premium mix of top-quality New Zealand grown seeds, providing essential energy to wild birds to thrive in your garden. Topflite Coconut Feeder These coconut shells are filled with nutritious peanut flavoured energy food, which we’re sure your garden birds will love.
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A Heavy-Duty Passion for the Task at Hand
Words in Association with Milwaukee Tool It’s almost 100 years since Henry Ford presented Milwaukee Tool founder A.H. Petersen with the challenge of replacing the large and cumbersome two-handed drills used on Ford assembly lines with a lighter, more portable innovation. The Milwaukee Hole-Shooter – designed to solve a specific user task – was just the beginning. Today, Milwaukee Tool’s focus remains on improving the way people work. This commitment to users is just one of the reasons why Milwaukee products are now available at Farmlands stores nationwide. This partnership helps bring unparalleled levels of performance and productivity to everyday farming and growing situations. It also offers extensive product availability through the depth and breadth of Farmlands’ retail offering. Milwaukee Tool New Zealand General Manager Geoff Polkinghorne says, “This focus on the end user is in our DNA. Milwaukee Tool does not engineer tools for the sake of it. We’re always asking, “How can we use emerging technologies, rigorous design and extensive field testing to aid our users to complete jobs faster and to a higher standard” Their dedication to providing the end user with the best tool for the job led to Milwaukee Tool developing the world’s first Lithium-ion cell for use in power tools. This innovation gave users optimal tool runtime, fade-free performance and battery compatibility across numerous tools. It also opened the door to countless new ways to advance cordless tools. “It’s a race with no finish in terms of technology and improvements,” says Geoff. “A farmer can head out with 16 different tools from a platform like our M18™ cordless system and use the same batteries for all of them. You’d be surprised how many tasks can be completed with the hundreds of solutions on our cordless platforms, like M18™, M12™ or MX FUEL™.” M18 Fuel Hammer Drill/Driver 13mm The M18 FUEL™ 13mm Hammer Drill Driver delivers the capability to drill large holes at high speed into the densest materials. M18 Transfer Pump Tool Faster Water Transfers, Faster Service Calls. The M18™ Transfer Pump (M18TP-0) brings new to world cordless innovation to the industry with the fastest setup in the marketplace.
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A Lifetime Dedicated to Unleashing Excellence
Words by Ayla Miller Renowned dog trainer and trialist Lloyd Smith has spent more than 50 years with a whistle in hand, winning sheep dog trials across New Zealand. He shares his proven methods to unleashing a canine companion's potential as a farm dog. Lloyd Smith’s association with working dogs can be traced back to 1969 when he left South Otago High School and began working on Hazeldale, situated up the Clinton Gorge in Southland. Initially planning to pursue studies at Lincoln College, he soon discovered a passion for stock work and gradually assembled a “motley looking bunch” of dogs, but a team regardless of appearances. “Looking back, they weren't really of any great consequence and that was probably more my fault than theirs. But they got me started,” Lloyd recalls. Moving on from the Clinton Gorge, he began mustering at Nokomai Station south of Lake Wakatipu, first under the guidance of head shepherd Bob McKay, then later under Larry Murdoch. It was during his time in the hill country alongside these seasoned stockmen, including the likes of Ted Phipps and Sam Boynton, that he absorbed the principles of effective stockmanship and learnt the skills to train a dog in accordance with those principles. “That's where I sort of got the bug,” he says. During those early years, he exclusively trained his dogs using livestock. However, later Lloyd modified his approach, dedicating a significant portion of basic training away from sheep, where only he and the dog are present. This allows him to focus on establishing the dog's command without the distractions of sheep, reducing it to a simple matter of obedience between the two of them. In 1982 Lloyd attended his first sheep dog trial championships and since then has been placed 61 times, including winning five New Zealand titles and five South and North Island titles. He has also been selected twice for the New Zealand Test Team competing against Australia. All of these results were with dogs he trained himself. One of the most common mistakes Lloyd sees people making when training their dogs is having a lack of patience – a mistake he admits he also made early on in his career. “Over the years, you learn to be more patient. A lot of people want everything done in a hurry and that just doesn't work that way when you're training dogs. It's about taking your time, one step at a time, and working your way through the stages of training until you've got the dog trained,” he says. Recognising when a dog is ready to be trained is a skill learnt over time, but Lloyd says a young dog who is ready will demonstrate a desire to work stock. If training begins before the dog shows that desire to work, then the animal may not understand what the trainer is trying to achieve, resulting in a loss of interest from the dog and a disillusioned trainer. In terms of choosing the right dog for the farm, Lloyd says it differs greatly from one farm to another depending on the circumstances, but there are two main types of dogs that suit being sheep dogs: heading dogs and Huntaways. Huntaways are known for their boisterous, energetic nature and are well-suited to forcing situations such as driving mobs through the yards or shifting sheep, while heading dogs are quieter and will work in a calmer manner. However, both can be trained to work across a variety of situations. When choosing a dog for your farm, Lloyd recommends starting with a young pup with good breeding behind it, as training a dog can be a long-term project. “Some of them are a lot more trainable than others and that's a big help. Some of them exhibit a lot more natural talent as far as handling stock goes.” One piece of advice he gives to all dog trainers would be to spend as much time as possible with their dogs while they are pups. Properly training a puppy requires dedicating a significant amount of time, specifically from the weaning stage (around eight to ten weeks of age), up until approximately eight to ten months of age, when more intensive stock training begins. Lloyd says it is important to ensure the puppy understands that it needs to conform, and that it recognises and responds to a particular tone of voice. “The biggest single asset you have when you're training a dog is to be able to growl at a pup and get them to realise by the tone your voice that they are doing something undesirable. And it's not all about growling, it's about recognising and rewarding progress made with a reassuring, rewarding voice,” he says. “The puppy stage is about getting them in the right frame of mind, for future training and obviously creating a bond. You and the pup should have a good relationship.” “It still comes down to really getting control of your dogs, because if you've got control of your dogs, it allows you to have better control of your stock.” Despite the many changes that have taken place within the agricultural industry, from technology to farming practices, the role of working dogs remains just as critical as it was when Lloyd first began his journey. These intelligent, loyal animals continue to provide essential support to farmers across the world, helping them manage their stock with skill and dedication. As we look to the future of farming, it's clear the bond between farmers and their canine companions will remain unbreakable. Thanks to remarkable individuals like Lloyd Smith, the legacy of the working dog will continue to endure, inspiring generations of farmers and dog trainers alike to recognise and appreciate the vital role that these animals play in our lives. FEATURED PRODUCTS Pro Plan Performance Extreme 32/30 PRO PLAN Performance Extreme is a high-energy formula with concentrated nutrients to release that potential energy, enabling your dog to maximize its performance. Stockman & Paddock Working Dog Dry Food Made with beef as the no.1 ingredient, High Performance Working Dog is specifically formulated with 26% protein and 16% fat to help keep your working dog in peak condition, working harder for longer.
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Flea Prevention and Treatment
Words by Norbrook Laboratories Ltd and Tiffany Menzies Fleas occur commonly in many environments and can cause irritating infestations for your pet – which may lead to skin disease or result in spreading disease also. Treating a Flea Outbreak Once you see evidence of fleas on your pet it is important to recognise that their home environment will have also become contaminated. Why? Fleas are prolific reproducers, releasing dozens of eggs daily which fall off your pet wherever they go - into all those nooks and crannies in bedding, furniture, floors - basically everywhere. Therefore, optimally managing fleas requires a two-pronged approach, treating both your pet and proactively managing their home environment. Using a fast-acting flea product like Moxiclear, which works by direct contact on the flea’s cuticle rather than the flea first having to bite your pet for a blood meal, is effective as it helps both limit further irritation for your pet and environmental flea egg contamination - because dead fleas do not lay eggs. Breaking the Environmental Life Cycle Identify your pet’s favorite hangout spots: Focus on treating these areas where your pet loves spending time. Regular vacuuming: Daily - if possible, which not only removes eggs but helps stimulate adult fleas to hatch from cocoons and then get sucked up in the vacuum. Do not forget the car! Regularly wash pet bedding: Use the hottest cycle, (more than 60°C, and at least 10 minutes). Restrict access areas: Prevent pets from accessing dark and humid areas where larvae survive, such as under the house. Treat all household pets: Remember the cats! Avoid untreated animals: Do not invite untreated animals into your home. Breaking the Flea Cycle Monthly treatments: Use Moxiclear on all household cats and dogs monthly to stop fleas breeding. Correct product use: Never use a dog flea preventative product on a cat or vice versa, as they may contain different chemicals or strengths which could cause toxicity. Year-round prevention: Follow a year-round flea environmental control and preventative treatment plan to prevent problems. Parasite Control Programs When deciding which preventative treatment to use for your pet, other parasite diseases to consider apart from fleas include gastrointestinal worms, mites, and ticks. Parasites can also cause illness in your pet and may simply be managed by using a regular treatment that provides broader protection. Working closely with your animal health professional and following these guidelines will help ensure your pet remains healthy and free from fleas and other parasites. Regular check-ups and treatments are key to maintaining a safe and comfortable environment for your beloved companion. FEATURED PRODUCTS Moxiclear Dogs Over 25kg 3pk Conveniently and easily applied spot on flea treatment, Moxiclear provides treatment or prevention for Fleas, Roundworm, Hookworm, Whipworm, Mange, Ear mites & Lice. Moxiclear Cats Over 4kg 3pk Conveniently and easily applied spot on flea treatment, Moxiclear provides treatment or prevention for Fleas, Roundworm, Hookworm, Lungworm & Ear mites.
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Supporting City Kids Learning to Farm
Located in the heart of Auckland is the Mt Albert Grammar School (MAGS) farm – one of the most unique school's in New Zealand. When MAGS asked for support to help raise its chickens, NRM delivered. In the concrete jungle that is New Zealand’s largest city, the 8ha Mount Albert Grammar School (MAGS) farm offers a taste of rural life to the school’s mostly urban students. Coadette Low, Head of Agriculture at the school, says the course has been growing in popularity. “We have over 200 students taking the programme, which is pretty cool for an option subject. The majority are from an urban background.” The farm offers a mixture of learning experiences for the students across both agriculture and horticulture. It has calves, lambs, dairy sheep, a citrus orchard, raised garden beds, vertical garden and even a gold kiwifruit educational licence. Last year, they added rearing chickens to the mix. “With the Year 12 programme, they do our livestock growth and development unit and we thought, let's do chickens, because we can get them as chicks and the kids can see their progress throughout the year, to becoming layers,” Coadette says. She approached NRM after getting great results for the chicks (now young pullets) on the NRM Chick Starter feed. “We are proud to support the health of the animals and help develop the knowledge of the students. Consequently, we delivered copies of the updated NRM Chook Book and Farmlands Calf Rearing Guide. It is great to see young Kiwis take an interest in agriculture, especially in a city like Auckland where their opportunities might be limited.” The 30 pullets are now feeding on NRM Pullet Grower Pellets and which they'll be on until they reach point of lay. Having hard copies of the books is a great resource as well. Most of these kids probably won’t go into farming poultry, but half of them might end up having backyard chickens.” With family sizes shrinking and New Zealand’s population becoming more urban, Coadette says it’s important for the future of the rural sector to give city kids a chance at farming. “We've got kids who are applying for Smedley [a training farm in Hawke’s Bay] this year and they have a clear passion, yet they are not off a farm, with others looking to head down to Massey or Lincoln University,” she says. “They have this innate want to do it, whereas we all know people who have grown up on the family farm who would never in a million years go back and run it; it's just not what they're interested in.” FEATURED PRODUCTS NRM Chick Starter Crumble 20kg NRM Chick Starter Crumble is a balanced feed designed to promote early bone, frame and feather development, rapid muscle deposition, and high health status in young chickens. NRM Pullet Grower 20kg A complete feed formulated to provide a balanced source of nutrients for young pullets or mature birds not in lay to provide a balanced source of nutrients without the risk of excessive weight gain.
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Choose Your Weapon for the Insect Battle
When it comes to finding the best way to control the range of crawling pests inside your house, buildings and outside areas, it is important to know what kind of insecticide you need. The most common crawling household pests are ants, cockroaches, silverfish, carpet beetles, mites, springtails, fleas, ticks, cluster flies, bed bugs, white-tailed spiders and myriad other spider species. Despite a large number of different active ingredients, all insecticides fall into one of two categories – repellent or non-repellent. Unfortunately, many insecticides don’t state this on the label, which can lead to the wrong product being used for the wrong pest. Most insecticides claim efficacy on a wide range of pests, but if they are repellent then the only insects killed will be the ones that come in direct contact with the chemical as it is applied. Those not in target range at application (this can be most of the population) will avoid the sprayed area because of its high level of repellence. In general, only a small percentage of any population is visible at any one time. To ensure a pest population eventually encounters a sprayed surface, it is important to apply a non-repellent insecticide on crawling insects. This should last for many months on the sprayed surface and still be efficacious even on porous surfaces. Many formulations such as Emulsifiable Concentrates (ECs) are absorbed into porous surfaces and have limited residual activity. Insecticides that have the best activity on all applied surfaces are water-based suspension concentrates (SCs). These are also less likely to damage paint and wallpaper when applied. Spiders (arachnids) fall into two categories, web builders and non-web builders. They can be controlled easily if the correct product is used. Web building spiders are generally fixed to one location and near their web. They are an easy target and both repellent and non-repellent insecticides will be equally effective in controlling them. White-tailed spiders are more problematic as they hunt at night and seek dark recesses during daylight hours. They are able to move on a silk thread from one height to another, so repellent insecticides will cause them to deviate from the sprayed area, limiting control. For this reason, white-tailed spiders should be treated the same way as crawling insects, with their crawl zones and hunting territory treated with a non-repellent insecticide. For flying insects and general spider control, No Pests Bug Spray will offer good control. For crawling insects and white-tailed spider control, No Pests Crawling Insect Spray for indoor applications and No Pests X-it Ant for outdoor use have been designed specifically for New Zealand conditions. They are suspension concentrates with no repellence and have a high level of efficacy. A feature of the two sprays is that 90 percent of the active ingredient particles are less than 10 microns in diameter. This small size allows for optimum spray contact and assists in rapid uptake of the insecticide by the insect. If you use the same sprayer to apply repellent and non-repellent insecticides, you will need to clean the sprayer well to avoid repellents tainting the non repellent insecticides. The best solution is to have a sprayer dedicated to applying nonrepellents. If that is not possible, clean your sprayer by filling with an enzyme-based washing powder and leaving it to soak overnight. Rinse thoroughly before use. FEATURED PRODUCTS NoPests Bug Spay NoPests Bug Spray kills and repels most insect species such as fleas, flies and spiders for up to 6 months. NoPests X-It Ant NoPests X-It Ant is a non-repellent, long lasting insecticide specifically designed to control all ant species in New Zealand.
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Grain Free – Equine Super Fibre Feed
Grain Free – Equine Super Fibre Feed Words by Luisa Wood - McMillan Feeds Equine Nutritionist While the importance of forage for maintaining equine digestive health is widely appreciated, it is pasture, hay and chaff that are often considered initially by horse owners when selecting forage sources. Forage supplies fibre, a dietary component that undergoes microbial fermentation in the hindgut of the horse, and can supply a horse with up to 30-70% of its digestible energy requirements. The long stemmed fibre that pasture and hay provides is essential for preventing gastric conditions, as it promotes chewing and the production of saliva. This saliva contains elements required to maintain the pH of the stomach and plays a crucial role in maintaining digestive tract health. In addition to long stemmed fibre, there are a number of highly digestible alternative fibre sources that have significant benefits to the horse and are highly popular New Zealand. Soy hulls and beet pulp are considered “super fibres” because they have energy levels much higher than typical forages. The energy levels in super fibres are almost as high as those found in grains such as oats and barley. These fibre sources are, however, safer to feed than cereal grains because they provide cool, slow-release energy, and using them in place of some of the grain in the diet can reduce the likelihood of grain overload. Both co-products, beet pulp is the dehydrated fibrous section of sugar beet that remains after the sugar has been extracted, and soy hulls are the fibrous outer part of the soybean. These fibre sources are often used as ingredients in manufactured feeds, or fed on their own to boost the fibre component of the diet. Being high in digestible fibre and low in starch and sugars, both these feed stuffs are ideal for horses that have low tolerance for easily digestible carbohydrates. Beet pulp and soy hulls are mostly fed soaked, providing further benefits of increasing water intake and assisting with hydration. This carries numerous benefits to performance horses as consumption of fibre can also create a holding tank of water and electrolytes in the hindgut. This reservoir may prevent dehydration and electrolyte depletion during an exercise bout. Beet pulp and soy hulls are also ideal for ensuring fibre intake in older horses with compromised dental health. McMillan Grain Free is a complete formulated fibre feed containing beet pulp and soy hulls. As well as highly digestible fibre, Grain Free also provides quality protein, fat and a fully balanced amount of organic trace minerals and natural vitamins. Grain Free is ideal for feeding alone as a complete feed, or combined with lower levels of another manufactured feed to provide fibre while also topping up nutrient levels. Grain Free is also a perfect energy source for horses and ponies requiring low starch diets such as ones at risk of laminitis, metabolic issues, digestive conditions or muscle conditions such as tying up. For further information on fibre sources or for assistance with your individual horse or pony’s diet, contact a Farmlands nutritionist. FEATURED PRODUCTS McMillan Grain Free McMillan Grain Free is a low GI, fully formulated and balanced super fibre feed designed for all horses requiring low starch diets including those with conditions such as laminitis, cushings and more. Speedi Beet 20kg Speedi-Beet is a quick soak, 10 minutes, starch-free, beet pulp flake. Easy to prepare, an ideal fiber source for feeding horses and ponies prone to laminitis.
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Let's' talk chickens
INCREASING EGG PRODUCTION AT HOME Words by Rob Derrick – Head of Farmlands Product Development. The egg shortage has seen Kiwis rushing out to buy chickens for their own egg supply. Dr Rob Derrick looks at what you should do to get the most out of your backyard egg operation. If you wish to start keeping laying hens, or to increase your existing output, winter is a good time to review the options. The egg shortage in New Zealand is predicted to end by the start of next year, but the shift to barn and free-range birds is likely to raise the price of eggs long-term by 14-28 percent compared to cage systems. Light triggers a hen’s pituitary gland to produce eggs. Regular egg laying requires 14-16 hours of light; supplementary lighting in the winter can help bring birds back into lay earlier than if just relying on the sun. Ensure the hen house is an appealing place for your birds to lay their eggs, whilst minimising diseases and mites by regular cleaning and disinfecting. Natural shade from vegetation can shelter birds from the sun and passing hawks; a dust bath and swing can enrich your birds’ lives and reduce aggression. Ewes and cows become more productive as they get older, but younger hens are more prolific egg layers than older birds, with egg production dropping after their first moult and each moult thereafter. If egg production is your primary goal, more birds, younger birds and modern hybrid birds are the key to success. Demand has pushed up the price of point-of-lay birds (pullets), day-old chicks, fertile eggs and mature birds, but waiting lists are likely to shorten. The majority of commercial birds in New Zealand are either Hy-Line Brown or Brown Shavers that lay brown eggs up to about 90 weeks of age. Modern hybrid pullets can produce an average of over five eggs per week from 18 weeks to first moult, but they tend have a shorter lifespan than heritage breeds. They can be purchased as sexed, vaccinated day-old chicks or pullets. Hatching home-laid eggs requires the services of a cockerel, which may be prohibited in some by-laws. Incubation can be by broody hen – more likely with bantams and the heavier breeds of chickens - or incubator. A good hen will also take responsibility for keeping chicks warm without the need for a broody box with heat lamp or pad which will be required for bought-in chicks. Laying hens should not have access to medicated chick starter feed, so the broody hen and chicks should be separated from the laying flock until the chicks learn to access their feed in a creep area only they can access. Giving a second chance to birds from housed commercial units gives access to high genetic merit birds, but they face a higher risk of getting sick when faced with diseases and parasites they have been protected from in a controlled environment. Attention to hygiene in the chicken house, feeders and water and minimising scraps is especially important when birds are adapting to life outdoors. Poultry nipple water dispensers, for example, can avoid problems associated with bowls and troughs. For more information check out the NRM Chook Book online. You can download the Chook Book, and other handy animal feeding guides, at nrm.co.nz/products/lifestyle. FEATURED PRODUCTS Peck N Lay Pellets 20kg A complete feed designed to provide the essential nutrients required to support egg production in laying hens. Chook Feeder 12kg A poultry feeder designed to automatically dispense feed to chickens. It helps to reduce waste and keeps the feed clean and dry, promoting healthier chickens and more efficient feeding practices.
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Lets talk Horses
Equine Lactation Words by Luisa Wood – Farmlands Equine Nutritionist The start of spring often means hearing the pitter patter of tiny hooves and is the most common time for foals to be born. For broodmares, lactation significantly increases their physiological demands. Well-fed lactating mares can produce the equivalent of 2-4 percent of their body weight in milk daily during the first two months of lactation. In order to sustain this incredible output, the energy requirement of nursing mares is nearly double that of barren or early-pregnant mares. In addition to elevated energy requirements, nursing also boosts protein, calcium, and phosphorus requirements. As well as adequate forage through pasture and hay if required, supplementary feed is generally required to maintain weight in lactating mares and meet their increased needs for energy, protein and trace minerals. NRM Evolve is an ideal solution here, and designed specifically to meet these requirements. As well as high quality protein and organic trace minerals, Evolve has the added benefit of Buffered Mineral Complex (BMC) from our technical partners Kentucky Equine Research. BMC has been shown in research studies conducted by KER to serve as a potent buffer in both the stomach and large intestine, and as a key component of a new supplement shown to increase bone density in young stock. This makes Evolve also ideal as a supplementary feed for foals when the time comes to wean them from the mare. For ‘good doer’ mares and young stock that require less calories, NRM Progress is a concentrated version of Evolve that contains similar ingredients but is fed at half the feeding rate. For assistance with feeding plans for breeding or young stock, consult with a qualified equine nutritionist. FEATURED PRODUCTS NRM Evolve Nuts 20kg Complete feed for breeding mares and foals. Suitable for pregnant and lactating mares as well as young growing horses from 3 months of age. NRM Assett 20kg Complete feed for growing horses and young horses in work. Suitable for horses from 6 months of age.
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